One snapped clip shouldn't write off the appliance — we 3D print the replacement part.

It surprises people how often the file is already out there. Some manufacturers publish spare-part files on their support pages, and free repositories like Printables are full of community-drawn replacements — washing machine door handles, vacuum clips, blind brackets, dishwasher basket wheels. Ten minutes of searching your make and model number is worth it: if a file turns up, this is by far the cheaper route.

Found one? Upload it to our quote page and you'll see the complete price in seconds. We accept STL, OBJ, 3MF, STEP and STP files up to 100 MB (and 3 million triangles), the price you see is locked in at checkout, and you'll get an estimated dispatch date before you pay. One part is fine: there's no minimum order quantity, just a £4.50 minimum per item and an £8.50 minimum order. For scale, a 22 g PLA part with about 19 minutes of print time comes to £4.55 including handling — and prices include all fees, with no VAT added.

Once your part is on the printer, customers with an account can watch it being printed live on the workshop camera from their order page — not something most print services will show you. And if a print fails our standards or arrives damaged, we reprint and reship it free.

If the part was never published and nobody in the community has drawn it, our design service recreates it from photos and measurements. Send clear pictures from a few angles, the key dimensions, and anything you know about how it fitted, and we'll model a printable replacement — with a fixed quote agreed before any design work starts.

We'll be honest about pricing, because this is where expectations slip. A genuinely simple shape — a plain bracket, a hook, a spacer — is £20–55, designed in 1–2 days. But recreating a broken part so it actually fits — matching snap fits, screw bosses and tolerances on something that may have shattered in your hand — is proper engineering work: £140–300, taking 1–2 weeks. Most broken appliance parts fall into that second bracket, and we'd rather tell you that up front than surprise you later.

Do the maths before you commit. £140–300 is money well spent on the discontinued hinge holding a £600 oven together; it makes no sense for a generic clip that's still on sale for a few pounds. If we think your part is the second kind, we'll point you at the cheaper option instead of taking the job.

Pick the material for where the part lives — heat, sunlight, flex, load — rather than trying to match whatever the original was made from. Six of the nine filaments we stock cover almost every replacement job:

• ABS — £0.08/g. Durable, heat resistant, matte finish. The default for appliance clips, enclosures and car-interior parts that live somewhere warm.
• ASA — £0.10/g. Like ABS but UV-stable. The right answer for anything that sits outside in sunlight — garden equipment, exterior trim and fittings.
• TPU 95A — £0.13/g. Rubber-like and tough. For the flexible jobs: gaskets, grips, bumpers, feet and small wheels.
• Polycarbonate (PC) — £0.17/g. Very strong, stiff and heat resistant to around 110°C. For rigid parts under real load in warm places.
• PA12-CF carbon-fibre nylon — £0.38/g. Exceptional wear and impact resistance, and it holds tolerance in damp conditions — for hard-working, end-use engineering replacements.
• PETG — £0.07/g. Strong, slightly flexible, weather resistant. The sensible general-purpose choice for brackets and everyday outdoor parts.

One honesty note on the carbon-fibre options: they use chopped fibre in the filament, not continuous strands, so expect a stiffer, more dimensionally stable plastic — not aerospace material. If you're weighing up two candidates, the materials page compares everything we stock, prices per gram included.

Some parts we'll turn down, and we'd rather tell you here than after you've measured everything up. Three things FDM printing honestly can't do:

• Food contact. FDM prints aren't food-safe, so we don't print anything that touches food or drink — blender parts, kettle internals, feeding bowls. Buy the genuine spare for these.
• Glass-clear transparency. Printed 'clear' comes out translucent at best. A lampshade or light diffuser that only needs to glow is fine; a lens, a window or a see-through cover isn't.
• Metal strength. If the original was metal, or the plastic part snapped because it really needed to be metal, a print in the same spot will usually fail the same way. PA12-CF closes the gap on plenty of jobs, but we print plastic — and if your part needs metal, we'll say so.

Everything else — knobs, handles, clips, hinges, brackets, wheels, trim, housings — is exactly what this page is for.